The 1894 Winchester is one of the easiest guns to carry because the balance of the gun is right around the receiver. Over time, many of these guns have the bluing worn and even small pits in the receiver just because they have been carried with our hand wrapped around the receiver. Sweat and grime eventually take a toll on the finish. These guns may still be mechanically solid but not look like we want anymore. If there are not pits in the steel that are too deep to polish out, polishing and re-bluing will restore the appearance of the gun as well as protect the steel from rusting.
The first step to the re-bluing process is to remove the stock and forearm and strip the receiver of all it’s parts. Once that is done, the polishing can begin. It is always tempting to use too course grit to make the job go faster. If you start with too course of a grit, the metal will end up with scratches that may never get completely polished out. Polishing is time consuming and needs to be done carefully so that no more material is removed than absolutely necessary. Care must be used to preserve all corners, lettering, contours and flats. With these things in mind, polishing is begun, and progressively finer grit is used until the desired polish is achieved. a fine polish is essential to making the finished job look it’s best.
Items Needed For Bluing
Before the bluing process can begin, all of the things needed for the process need to be readied. The bluing, {Mark Lee bluing solution is what was used}, a glass container to pour the bluing into and a brush for applying the solution need to be gathered up. Something to hang the gun and parts to be blued must be made or procured. A propane torch for warming the parts before applying the bluing solution is needed. Some Simple Green to de-grease the gun is also needed. The last items needed are a pot and stove or cooker for boiling water and a pipe for holding the water that is deep enough to place the gun into after applying the bluing is also needed. A carding wheel or some very fine steel wool if it is to be done by hand is also needed. Finally, some WD 40 to put the gun in to displace the water.
The Bluing
The Mark Lee bluing is a rust blue process. The advantage of rust blue is it is very durable and it is also a good-looking finish. Although the rust bluing process is time consuming, it is worth the effort because of its durability and appearance.
The Bluing Process
When all of the preparation work is done, the gun needs to be de-greased with Simple Green. Any traces of oil and any fingerprints will spoil the bluing. The gun and any parts are then heated and the bluing solution brushed on. After applying the bluing solution, the gun is put into the water which has been heated to boil. The gun is then dried, carded, and the application of the bluing solution and water bath is repeated several times until the bluing is of the quality desired. There is more detailed information on the process available from Mark Lee, as well as videos available on the internet. https://markleesupplies.com
If you have a gun in need of re-bluing, and don’t have the time or inclination to do it yourself, Craigs Outdoor Sports offers this service. Craig has considerable experience in the re-bluing process.
Warning! Bluing firearms involves the use of chemicals as well as heat and can be harmful. Re-bluing firearms should not be attempted by anyone who does not have the proper safety equipment and clothing and proper training. Craig’s Outdoor Sports cannot be responsible for the use or misuse of any information contained in this article.